The Cook\'s Decameron:
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Mrs. W. G. Water >> The Cook\'s Decameron:
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11 The Cook's Decameron: A Study In Taste
Containing Over Two Hundred Recipes For Italian Dishes
By
Mrs. W. G. Waters
"Show me a pleasure like dinner, which comes every day and lasts an
hour." -- Talleyrand circa 1901
To
A. V.
In memory of Certain Ausonian Feasts
Preface
Montaigne in one of his essays* mentions the high excellence
Italian cookery had attained in his day. "I have entered into this
Discourse upon the Occasion of an Italian I lately receiv'd into my
Service, and who was Clerk of the Kitchen to the late Cardinal
Caraffa till his Death. I put this Fellow upon an Account of his
office: Where he fell to Discourse of this Palate-Science, with
such a settled Countenance and Magisterial Gravity, as if he had
been handling some profound Point of Divinity. He made a Learned
Distinction of the several sorts of Appetites, of that of a Man
before he begins to eat, and of those after the second and third
Service: The Means simply to satisfy the first, and then to raise
and acute the other two: The ordering of the Sauces, first in
general, and then proceeded to the Qualities of the Ingredients,
and their Effects: The Differences of Sallets, according to their
seasons, which ought to be serv'd up hot, and which cold: The
Manner of their Garnishment and Decoration, to render them yet more
acceptable to the Eye after which he entered upon the Order of the
whole Service, full of weighty and important Considerations."
It is consistent with Montaigne's large-minded habit thus to
applaud the gifts of this master of his art who happened not to be
a Frenchman. It is a canon of belief with the modern Englishman
that the French alone can achieve excellence in the art of cookery,
and when once a notion of this sort shall have found a lodgment in
an Englishman's brain, the task of removing it will be a hard one.
Not for a moment is it suggested that Englishmen or any one else
should cease to recognise the sovereign merits of French cookery;
all that is entreated is toleration, and perchance approval, of
cookery of other schools. But the favourable consideration of any
plea of this sort is hindered by the fact that the vast majority of
Englishmen when they go abroad find no other school of cookery by
the testing of which they may form a comparison. This universal
prevalence of French cookery may be held to be a proof of its
supreme excellence--that it is first, and the rest nowhere;
but the victory is not so complete as it seems, and the facts would
bring grief and humiliation rather than patriotic pride to the
heart of a Frenchman like Brillat-Savarin. For the cookery we meet
in the hotels of the great European cities, though it may be based
on French traditions, is not the genuine thing, but a bastard,
cosmopolitan growth, the same everywhere, and generally vapid and
uninteresting. French cookery of the grand school suffers by being
associated with such commonplace achievements. It is noted in the
following pages how rarely English people on their travels
penetrate where true Italian cookery may be tasted, wherefore it
has seemed worth while to place within the reach of English
housewives some Italian recipes which are especially fitted for the
presentation of English fare to English palates under a different
and not unappetising guise. Most of them will be found simple and
inexpensive, and special care has been taken to include those
recipes which enable the less esteemed portions of meat and the
cheaper vegetables and fish to be treated more elaborately than
they have hitherto been treated by English cooks.
The author wishes to tender her acknowledgments to her husband for
certain suggestions and emendations made in the revision of the
introduction, and for his courage in dining, "greatly daring," off
many of the dishes. He still lives and thrives. Also to Mrs.
Mitchell, her cook, for the interest and enthusiasm she has shown
in the work, for her valuable advice, and for the care taken in
testing the recipes.
Contents
Prologue
Part I
The First Day
The Second Day.
The Third Day.
The Fourth Day
The Fifth Day.
The Sixth Day.
The Seventh Day
The Eighth Day
The Ninth Day.
The Tenth Day.
Part II -- Recipes
Sauces
No.
1. Espagnole or Brown Sauce.
2. Velute Sauce.
3. Bechamel Sauce.
4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking).
5. Genoese Sauce.
6. Italian Sauce.
7. Ham Sauce (Salsa di Prosciutto).
8. Tarragon Sauce.
9. Tomato Sauce.
10. Tomato Sauce Piquante.
11. Mushroom Sauce.
12. Neapolitan Sauce.
13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce.
14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce).
15. Roman Sauce (another way).
16. Supreme Sauce.
17. Pasta marinate (for masking Italian Frys).
18. White Villeroy.
Soups
19. Clear Soup.
20. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup).
21. Soup alla Lombarda.
22. Tuscan Soup.
23. Venetian Soup.
24. Roman Soup.
25. Soup alla Nazionale.
26. Soup alla Modanese.
27. Crotopo Soup.
28. Soup all'Imperatrice.
29. Neapolitan Soup.
30. Soup with Risotto.
31. Soup alla Canavese.
32. Soup alla Maria l'ia.
33. Zuppa d'Erbe (Lettuce Soup).
34. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen's soup).
Minestre
35. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre, &c.
36. Minestra alla Casalinga.
37. Minestra of Rice and Turnips.
38. Minestra alla Capucina.
39. Minestra of Semolina.
40. Minestrone alla Milanese.
41. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage.
42. Minestra of Rice and Celery.
43. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels).
44. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of Fish).
45. Astachi all'Italiana (Lobster).
46. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod).
47. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet).
48. Mullet alla Tolosa.
49. Mullet alla Triestina.
50. Whiting alla Genovese.
51. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod).
52. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod).
53. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock).
54. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting).
55. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters).
56. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters).
57. Ostriche alla Neneziana (Oysters).
58. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish).
59. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot).
60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole).
61. Sogliole al tegame (Sole).
62. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole).
63. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole).
64. Sogliole alla parmigiana (Sole).
65. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon).
66. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon).
67. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon).
68. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon).
69. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon).
70. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon).
71. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte.
Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, &c.
72. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef).
73. Stufato alla Fiorentina (Stewed Beef).
74. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak).
75. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives).
76. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef).
77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef).
78. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of Beef).
79. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef).
80. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef with Pistacchios).
81. Scalopini di Rizo (Beef with Risotto).
82. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of Veal).
83. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets).
84. Costolette alla Monza (Veal Cutlets).
85. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal).
86. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal).
87. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives).
88. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal).
89. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton Cutlets).
90. Petto di Castrato all'Italiana (Breast of Mutton).
91. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton).
92. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Villeroy (Tendons of Lamb).
93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of Lamb).
94. Costoletto d'Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cutlets).
Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's Head, Liver, Sucking Pig, &c.
95. Timballo alla Romana.
96. Timballo alla Lombarda.
97. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue).
98. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue with Cucumber).
99. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep's Tongues).
100.. Lingue di Vitello all'Italiana (Calves' Tongues).
101. Porcelletto alla Corradino (Sucking Pig).
102. Porcelletto da Latte in Galantina (Sucking Pig).
103. Ateletti alla Sarda.
1O4. Ateletti alla Genovese.
105. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf's Head).
106. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf's head).
107. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf's Head).
108. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf's Head).
109. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf's Head).
110. Zampetti (Calves' Feet).
111. Bodini Marinati.
112. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread).
113. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread).
114. Animelle all'Italiana (Sweetbread).
115. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread).
116. Frittura di Bottoni e di Animelle (Sweetbreads and
Mushrooms).
117. Cervello in Filiserbe (Calf's Brains).
118. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf's Brains).
119. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains).
120. Frittuta of Cervello (Calf's Brains).
121. Cervello alla Frittata Montano (Calf's Brains).
122. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains).
123. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb's Sweetbread).
124. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb's Fry).
125. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy.
126. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese.
127. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls' Livers).
128. Minuta alla Visconti (Chickens' Livers).
129. Croutons alla Principessa.
130. Croutons alla Romana.
Fowl, Duck, Game, Hare, Rabbit, &c.
131. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffle).
132. Pollo alla Fiorentina (Chicken).
133. Pollo ali'Oliva (Chicken).
134. Pollo alla Villereccia (Chicken).
135. Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken).
136. Pollastro alla Lorenese (Fowl).
137. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro (Fowl).
138. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro (Braized Fowl).
139. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice).
140. Dindo Arrosto alla Milanese (Roast Turkey).
141. Tacchinotto all'Istriona (Turkey Poult).
142. Fagiano alla Napoletana (Pheasant).
143. Fagiano alla Perigo (Pheasant).
144. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck).
145. Perniciotti alla Gastalda (Partridges).
146. Piccioni alla Diplomatica (Snipe).
147. Piccioni alla minute (Pigeons)
148. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons).
149. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare).
150. Lepre Agro-dolce (Hare).
151. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit).
152. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino (Roast Rabbit).
153. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit).
Vegetables
154. Asparagi alla salsa Suprema (Asparagus).
155. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda (Brussels Sprouts).
156. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana (Beetroot).
157. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans).
158. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage).
159. Cavoli fiori alla Lionese (Cauliflower).
160. Cavoli fiori fritti (Cauliflower).
161. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana.
162. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni.
163. Sedani alla l'armigiana (Celery).
164. Sedani Fritti all'Italiana (Celery).
165. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana (Cucumber).
166. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber).
167. Carote al sughillo (Carrots).
168. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots and peas).
169. Verze alla Certosina (Cabbage).
170. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce).
171. Lattughe farcite alla Genovese (Lettuce).
172. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed Mushrooms).
173. Verdure miste (Macedoine of Vegetables).
174. Patate alla crema (Potatoes in cream).
175. Cestelline cli patate alla giardiniera (Potatoes).
176. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with Tomato Sauce).
177. Spinaci alla Milanese (Spinach).
178. Insalata di patate (Potato salad).
179. Insalata alla Navarino (Salad).
180. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad).
181. Tartufi alla Dino (Truffles).
Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, All Other Italian Pastes
182. Macaroni with Tomatoes Macaroni alla Casalinga.
183. Macaroni al Sughillo.
184. Macaroni alla Livornese.
186. Tagliarelle and Lobster.
187. Polenta.
188. Polenta Pasticciata.
189. Battuffoli.
190. Risotto all'Italiana.
191. Risotto alla Genoxese.
192. Risotto alla Spagnuola.
193. Risotto alla Capuccina.
194. Risotto alla Parigina.
195. Ravioli.
196. Ravioli alla Fiorentina.
197. Gnoechi alla Romana.
198. Gnoechi alla Lombarda.
199. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice Pancake).
Omelettes and Other Egg Dishes
200. Uova ai Tartufi (Eggs with Truffles).
201. Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes).
202. Uova ripiene (Canapes of Egg).
203. Uova alla Fiorentina (Eggs).
204. Uova in fili (Egg Canapes).
205. Frittata di funghi (Mushroom Omelette).
206. Frittata eon Pomidoro (Tomato Omelette).
207. Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus Omelette).
208. Frittata eon erbe (Omelette with Herbs).
209. Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle').
210. Frittata di Proseiutto (Ham Omelette).
Sweets and Cakes
211. Bodino off Semolina.
212. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream).
213. Crema Montata alle Fragole (Strawberry Cream).
214. Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat).
215. Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel Cream).
216. Cremona Cake.
217. Cake alla Tolentina.
218. Riso all'Imperatrice.
219. Amaretti leggier (Almond Cakes).
220. Cakes alla Livornese.
221. Genoese Pastry.
222. Zabajone.
223. Iced Zabajone.
224. Panforte di Siena (Sienese Hardbake).
New Century Sauce
225. Fish Sauce.
226. Sauce Piquante (for Meat, Fowl, Game, Rabbit, &c.).
227. Sauce for Venison, Hare, &c.
228. Tomato Sauce Piquante.
229. Sauce for Roast Pork, Ham, &c.
230. For masking Cutlets, &c.
Part I
The Cook's Decameron
Prologue
The Marchesa di Sant'Andrea finished her early morning cup of tea,
and then took up the batch of correspondence which her maid had
placed on the tray. The world had a way of treating her in kindly
fashion, and hostile or troublesome letters rarely veiled their
ugly faces under the envelopes addressed to her; wherefore the
perfection of that pleasant half-hour lying between the last sip of
tea and the first step to meet the new day was seldom marred by the
perusal of her morning budget. The apartment which she graced with her
seemly presence was a choice one in the Mayfair Hotel, one
which she had occupied for the past four or five years during her
spring visit to London; a visit undertaken to keep alive a number
of pleasant English friendships which had begun in Rome or Malta.
London had for her the peculiar attraction it has for so many
Italians, and the weeks she spent upon its stones were commonly the
happiest of the year.
The review she took of her letters before breaking the seals first
puzzled her, and then roused certain misgivings in her heart. She
recognised the handwriting of each of the nine addresses, and at
the same time recalled the fact that she was engaged to dine with
every one of the correspondents of this particular morning. Why
should they all be writing to her? She had uneasy forebodings of
postponement, and she hated to have her engagements disturbed; but
it was useless to prolong suspense, so she began by opening the
envelope addressed in the familiar handwriting of Sir John
Oglethorpe, and this was what Sir John had to say--
"My Dear Marchesa, words, whether written or spoken, are powerless
to express my present state of mind. In the first place, our
dinner on Thursday is impossible, and in the second, I have lost
Narcisse and forever. You commented favourably upon that supreme
of lobster and the Ris de Veau a la Renaissance we tasted last
week, but never again will you meet the handiwork of Narcisse. He
came to me with admirable testimonials as to his artistic
excellence; with regard to his moral past I was, I fear, culpably
negligent, for I now learn that all the time he presided over my
stewpans he was wanted by the French police on a charge of
murdering his wife. A young lady seems to have helped him; so I
fear Narcisse has broken more than one of the commandments in this
final escapade. The truly great have ever been subject to these
momentary aberrations, and Narcisse being now in the hands of
justice--so called--our dinner must needs stand over, though not, I
hope, for long. Meantime the only consolation I can perceive is
the chance of a cup of tea with you this afternoon.
J. O."
Sir John Oglethorpe had been her husband's oldest and best friend.
He and the Marchesa had first met in Sardinia, where they had both
of them gone in pursuit of woodcock, and since the Marchesa had
been a widow, she and Sir John had met either in Rome or in London
every year. The dinner so tragically manque had been arranged to
assemble a number of Anglo-Italian friends; and, as Sir John was as
perfect as a host as Narcisse was as a cook, the disappointment was
a heavy one. She threw aside the letter with a gesture of
vexation, and opened the next.
"Sweetest Marchesa," it began, "how can I tell you my grief at
having to postpone our dinner for Friday. My wretched cook (I gave
her seventy-five pounds a year), whom I have long suspected of
intemperate habits, was hopelessly inebriated last night, and had
to be conveyed out of the house by my husband and a dear, devoted
friend who happened to be dining with us, and deposited in a four-
wheeler. May I look in tomorrow afternoon and pour out my grief to
you? Yours cordially,
"Pamela St. Aubyn Fothergill."
When the Marchesa had opened four more letters, one from Lady
Considine, one from Mrs. Sinclair, one from Miss Macdonnell, and
one from Mrs. Wilding, and found that all these ladies were obliged
to postpone their dinners on account of the misdeeds of their
cooks, she felt that the laws of average were all adrift. Surely
the three remaining letters must contain news of a character to
counterbalance what had already been revealed, but the event showed
that, on this particular morning, Fortune was in a mood to strike
hard. Colonel Trestrail, who gave in his chambers carefully devised
banquets, compounded by a Bengali who was undoubtedly something of
a genius, wrote to say that this personage had left at a day's
notice, in order to embrace Christianity and marry a lady's-maid
who had just come into a legacy of a thousand pounds under the will
of her late mistress. Another correspondent, Mrs. Gradinger, wrote
that her German cook had announced that the dignity of womanhood
was, in her opinion, slighted by the obligation to prepare food for
others in exchange for mere pecuniary compensation. Only on
condition of the grant of perfect social equality would she consent
to stay, and Mrs. Gradinger, though she held advanced opinions, was
hardly advanced far enough to accept this suggestion. Last of all,
Mr. Sebastian van der Roet was desolate to announce that his cook,
a Japanese, whose dishes were, in his employer's estimation,
absolute inspirations, had decamped and taken with him everything
of value he could lay hold of; and more than desolate, that he was
forced to postpone the pleasure of welcoming the Marchesa di
Sant' Andrea at his table.
When she had finished reading this last note, the Marchesa gathered
the whole mass of her morning's correspondence together, and
uttering a few Italian words which need not be translated, rolled
it into a ball and hurled the same to the farthest corner of the
room. "How is it," she ejaculated, "that these English, who
dominate the world abroad, cannot get their food properly cooked at
home? I suppose it is because they, in their lofty way, look upon
cookery as a non-essential, and consequently fall victims to gout
and dyspepsia, or into the clutches of some international
brigandaccio, who declares he is a cordon bleu. One hears now and
again pleasant remarks about the worn-out Latin races, but I know
of one Latin race which can do better than this in cookery." And
having thus delivered herself, the Marchesa lay back on the pillows
and reviewed the situation.
She was sorry in a way to miss the Colonel's dinner. The dishes
which the Bengali cook turned out were excellent, but the host
himself was a trifle dictatorial and too fond of the sound of his
own voice, while certain of the inevitable guests were still worse.
Mrs. Gradinger's letter came as a relief; indeed the Marchesa had
been wondering why she had ever consented to go and pretend to
enjoy herself by eating an ill-cooked dinner in company with social
reformers and educational prigs. She really went because she liked
Mr. Gradinger, who was as unlike his wife as possible, a stout
youth of forty, with a breezy manner and a decided fondness for
sport. Lady Considine's dinners were indifferent, and the guests
were apt to be a bit too smart and too redolent of last season's
Monte Carlo odour. The Sinclairs gave good dinners to perfectly
selected guests, and by reason of this virtue, one not too common,
the host and hostess might be pardoned for being a little too well
satisfied with themselves and with their last new bibelot. The
Fothergill dinners were like all other dinners given by the
Fothergills of society. They were costly, utterly undistinguished,
and invariably graced by the presence of certain guests who seemed
to have been called in out of the street at the last moment. Van
der Roet's Japanese menus were curious, and at times inimical to
digestion, but the personality of the host was charming. As to Sir
John Oglethorpe, the question of the dinner postponed troubled her
little: another repast, the finest that London's finest restaurant
could furnish, would certainly be forthcoming before long. In Sir
John's case, her discomposure took the form of sympathy for her
friend in his recent bereavement. He had been searching all his
life for a perfect cook, and he had found, or believed he had
found, such an one in Narcisse; wherefore the Marchesa was fully
persuaded that, if that artist should evade the guillotine, she
would again taste his incomparable handiwork, even though he were
suspected of murdering his whole family as well as the partner of
his joys.
That same afternoon a number of the balked entertainers
foregathered in the Marchesa's drawing-room, the dominant subject
of discourse being the approaching dissolution of London society
from the refusal of one human to cook food for another. Those
present were gathered in two groups. In one the Colonel, in spite
of the recent desertion of his Oriental, was asserting that the
Government should be required to bring over consignments of
perfectly trained Indian cooks, and thus trim the balance between
dining room and kitchen; and to the other Mrs. Gradinger, a gaunt,
ill-dressed lady in spectacles, with a commanding nose and dull,
wispy hair, was proclaiming in a steady metallic voice, that it was
absolutely necessary to double the school rate at once in order to
convert all the girls and some of the boys as well, into perfectly
equipped food-cooking animals; but her audience gradually fell
away, and in an interval of silence the voice of the hostess was
heard giving utterance to a tentative suggestion.
"But, my dear, it is inconceivable that the comfort and the
movement of society should depend on the humours of its servants.
I don't blame them for refusing to cook if they dislike cooking,
and can find other work as light and as well paid; but, things
being as they are, I would suggest that we set to work somehow to
make ourselves independent of cooks."
"That 'somehow' is the crux, my dear Livia," said Mrs. Sinclair.
"I have a plan of my own, but I dare not breathe it, for I'm sure
Mrs. Gradinger would call it 'anti-social,' whatever that may
mean."
"I should imagine that it is a term which might be applied to any
scheme which robs society of the ministrations of its cooks," said
Sir John.
"I have heard mathematicians declare that what is true of the whole
is true of its parts," said the Marchesa. "I daresay it is, but I
never stopped to inquire. I will amplify on my own account, and
lay down that what is true of the parts must be true of the whole.
I'm sure that sounds quite right. Now I, as a unit of society, am
independent of cooks because I can cook myself, and if all the
other units were independent, society itself would be independent--
ecco!"
"To speak in this tone of a serious science like Euclid seems
rather frivolous," said Mrs. Gradinger. "I may observe--" but here
mercifully the observation was checked by the entry of Mrs. St.
Aubyn Fothergill.
She was a handsome woman, always dominated by an air of serious
preoccupation, sumptuously, but not tastefully dressed. In the
social struggle upwards, wealth was the only weapon she possessed,
and wealth without dexterity has been known to fail before this.
She made efforts, indeed, to imitate Mrs. Sinclair in the
elegancies of menage, and to pose as a woman of mind after the
pattern of Mrs. Gradinger; but the task first named required too
much tact, and the other powers of endurance which she did not
possess.
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